Lviv’s Warm Hospitality: A Personal Journey

I have been in Lviv, Ukraine for about a week now, and it’s very different than American culture and let me tell you how. (I can’t believe I have to head back home again in a week and will definitely miss it!)

Before I begin, I want to state that this is my experience in Lviv. It may not be your experience in Lviv and it may not be the same in places like Kharkiv, but it was mine in Lviv!

The People: Kindness, Hospitality, Collectivism & the Looks 🙂

The first thing is that everyone wants to help. People here are very kind, considerate and do their best to make you feel welcome and at home.

I came here initially to volunteer, to help. As an American, I assumed it would very much be a- here to volunteer, cut some carrots, go home. But it wasn’t. Once I arrived to the kitchen, I told the lady that I want to volunteer and the room echoed with a “Oh, good!” or in Ukrainian, “Добрий” (Dobryy). A lady showed me how to make the jerky, asked me my name- where I was from and my age. They were impressed when I said I was 27 (which was sweet, but not needed!) They said that the tea and coffee is for everyone and showed me their station and then poured some borscht and sour cream for me. They told me to sit down and brought a chair to me.

On my first day, I went camo netting (making blanket-type things to help conceal military vehicles and equipment) and I met a lady named Anna. Anna was maybe 50-60s and we briefly talked at the end. It was getting late and I wanted to stay because I had friends I wanted to have dinner with that night (and I was closer here than if I were to go back to my place) and she made sure to stay as she walked out with me. She helped me tie the knots and gave me scissors when I was having issues untying one of the knots I messed up on. “Here. It easier with scissors,” she said.

The second night, I went out to the bar with some friends (we’ll talk about the nightlife later). I was waiting in the line to the bathroom and a woman in front of me started striking up conversation. (In the States this would NEVER happen)! I engaged and I told her that I’m from America and am here to volunteer and help. She said, “oh my gosh, can I give you a hug?” I nodded and we hugged and she said, “I just want to thank you so much, oh my gosh. It really means so much to me that you came all the way here.” And at that, the person in the restroom came out and that was that.

And the last thing I must warn you about is that eye contact is different here than in the States. In the States, people don’t look at you for very long; most people are intentionally looking down or away- but in Ukraine, people may hold your gaze for a few seconds. if you don’t look Slavic (like me) people may look at you a little longer than that. From what I’ve been told, it’s out of curiosity, not judgement. But it is different than I was used to. Do I have something in my teeth? Is my hair messy?

Fashion:

Everyone here is VERY fashionable. I somewhat feel like I’m in a fashion show of some kind, a runway that I don’t know about (and am absurdly down-dressed). People here just dress more eloquently and “put together.” When it’s colder, perhaps not as much but still much more than in the States.

The secondhand stores may also play a part in that, Ukraine will get a shipload of clothing from other countries, often very nice clothing, every week. The beginning of the week, is where the best clothing is, but more expensive. Over the week, before the next delivery, the cost of the clothing will go down. Oh- and did I forget? You don’t pay per item. You pay per kilo!

The Buildings:

I know this is such an “American” thing for me to say. Yes, yes- I’ll admit it. But the buildings here are absolutely gorgeous, not even the ones that are supposed to be showy, sometimes even banks look extraordinary.

And while I’m at it, let’s talk about the Pharmacies. Pharmacies are everywhere… like I’m talking like 5 on one street. In Ukraine, Pharmacies aren’t governed by the country through chains (like how in the US there are CVS or Walgreens). Instead, they are privately owned and relatively easy to open. Similar to multiple clothing stores. And for that reason- they are everywhere! (Which is great if you’re sick, like I was!)

Nightlife:

The nightlife in Ukraine is fantastic, even amist a war, there are bars and people out at all hours (except 12pm when the curfew is ;)) People in bars are also pretty friendly.

Because drinking is such a heavy part of the culture, unfortunately the alcohol addiction rate is higher here than in other countries. Although, oddly enough- I had never seen anyone drunk since being here. It’s not like I walk out in the streets and see a crowd of 10 drunk men sitting on crates. Remember, Ukraine is very “posh” and elegant so to speak, but statistics show it’s there! Ukraine’s alcohol (reported) addiction rate is 3.5k per 100k. It may seem low, but it’s actually the 12th highest in the world. “Drunk Cherry” is a Ukrainian-typical drink and you’ll see a lot of places that serve them (noted by the large cherries on the sides of the building.) It’s a type of cherry liqueur/wine with 17.5% ABV originating from Lviv itself. It’s known for its sweet, rich taste and signature serving style with cherries in the glass.

Many people are out and about during the late hours 10-11pm. There are street performers, kids on scooters, lovers on benches. People are actually talking to each either (excuse my phrasing, I mean- people aren’t glued to their phones here; what a relief)

Language:

Lastly, most people here speak Ukrainian (obviously) with Russian being more prevalent in Eastern parts of the country. As Lviv is known for its tourism and citizens are used to seeing an influx in volunteers here during the war (as it’s safer)- many will speak some English. I try and speak Ukrainian when I go to different places and I’ve had once where someone really couldn’t help me because there was no one else and they didn’t speak English, but besides that- I’ve been able to get by. I was told by one of my fellow volunteers that because of that- it’s easy to get “lazy” and give up on learning the language.

And thus, that is everything I have learned about Lviv Ukraine and the culture here. It’s been a one-of-a-kind experience and honestly can’t wait to return.

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